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Remington 552 Autoloader Troubleshooting...

Moderators: ripjack13, John A.

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Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 1:38 pm
Location: NY
PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:52 pm
Any issues, concerns or problems you may have with your Remington 552 Autoloader; this is a thread for troubleshooting.

Copper BB
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:48 am
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 10:17 am
I had a 552 that would not fire.
I replaced the firing pin and and now the first shell fires, but not the second. (chambers okay)
When I eject the second shell manually, the third shell will fire. (or any shell manually loaded)
So I guess it has to do with trigger cocking?

Any ideas to try would be appreciated.
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 8:06 pm
Welcome to the Remington Owners Forum RL92821 !!

Not sure, but someone will be along shortly with an answer...stand by !
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Copper BB
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2012 12:32 am
Location: North Carolina
PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:21 am
It sounds as if something is preventing the bolt from traveling far enough to the rear after firing a shot. You are compensating for that by manually chambering a round. If you could take the trigger group out and take a few pics of it and the bolt and the inside of the receiver then I might be able to help a little further. I actually took a 552 apart yesterday and have the parts soaking in cleaner now. I am very familiar with these great guns.
Website for KGB Armory- http://www.kgbarmory.com
Custom builds, DuraCoat Refinishing & Gunsmithing

Copper BB
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:48 am
PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 7:27 pm
Thanks KGB

I actually took the trigger assmbly back apart yesterday and looked at the buffer and buffer plate. When I took the trigger assembly out to replace the firing pin, these two fell out. I did not have a diagram at the time so I guessed, and put the buffer in first then the buffer plate with the 90 deg. tab pointing toward the rear, but covering the front edge of the buffer. After downloading a diagram it appears the buffer plate should be installed first with the tab pointing to the rear, but at the top of the gun. After reassemlbing this way yesterday, it appears to be okay. Now just have to wait for the next chance to use it.

Thanks again for your help.
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Copper BB
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Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2012 12:32 am
Location: North Carolina
PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:02 pm
That sounds like you might have it fixed alright. You are correct about the positioning of those parts now so you should be good to go. Let us know how it works when you get a chance to shoot it.
Website for KGB Armory- http://www.kgbarmory.com
Custom builds, DuraCoat Refinishing & Gunsmithing

Copper BB
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue May 01, 2012 10:34 pm
PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 10:40 pm
i recently inherited my 552 and the take down screw is well screwed lol i was wondering if anyone knew the thread pitch off hand i cant find it anywhere online the screw from my target master seems to be right but i think the threads on the barrel lug are messed up too so i need to get a tap and or thread chaser but need the pitch

Copper BB
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2012 5:59 pm
PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2012 6:26 pm
ericg86 wrote:i recently inherited my 552 and the take down screw is well screwed lol i was wondering if anyone knew the thread pitch off hand i cant find it anywhere online the screw from my target master seems to be right but i think the threads on the barrel lug are messed up too so i need to get a tap and or thread chaser but need the pitch

The 552 is still in production..Order the screw from Remington. Then either order a thread checker gauge/plate from brownells or carry it to a gunsmith that has one..Once you have determined the pitch and diameter you can then match it to the correct tap and die. Hope this helps. Dave :D

Copper BB
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2013 3:49 pm
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 4:33 pm
I have a 552 my dad gave me back around 1979-80. The gun was new and from day one had trouble loading shorts. When new, it would get a nasty jam on just about every other shot. It was fairly reliable with LR ammo though. I recently dusted it off for my son to use. I did a complete takedown and discovered that the hammer had a large tag of metal on the beveled edge -- an obvious manufacturing defect. I filed it off and the gun hasn't had a single jam since. The other day I decided to try some shorts because LR ammo is sold out everywhere in my town. I didn't get any jams but the gun only self-loaded one in about every 5 to 10 rounds. It worked fine as long as I loaded each round manually. The bolt operates smoothly and I've ruled out burrs or anything like that. I'm fine with sticking to LR ammo but I'm wondering if anyone here has theories about what the problem might be. Could it be an overly stiff action spring? Or are these rifles just not reliable with short ammo?

Problem # 2: The magazine follower occasionally gets wedged into the slot below the breech after the last shot. Sometimes the bolt will actually hit it, wedging it even tighter. When this happens, the only way to remove the magazine is to pry the follower out of the slot. I suspect this may have something to do with filing away damage from jams back when the gun was new, causing the slot to widen. If that is the case, is a complete barrel replacement the only remedy?

In retrospect, we should have sent it in for warranty repair back when it was new.

Copper BB
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Sep 21, 2013 10:21 am
PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 10:34 am
Hi,
I have a Remington Speedmaster 552 that I inherited from my father in law. My wife believes that it's from the mid-70's. I have taken it to a local gunsmith to have it services and he did some work on it including replacing several of the springs, cleaning it out, and getting rid of any burrs. It shoots well, but I've found that as it's shot, the magazine tube will end up inching forward out of the magazine rings and after about 10-15 rounds (if I haven't been watching it), it will fly off entirely. I've tried tightening the magazine screw on the magazine ring, but it's as tight as it will get. I can't think of what else I need to do to keep the magazine tube secured. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks!

Copper BB
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2013 9:03 pm
Location: winder, georgia
PostPosted: Tue Oct 22, 2013 9:47 pm
just bought a real clean-- about 85% condition 1967 552 BDL. i love this beautiful rifle but there is one thing wrong that is driving me CRAZY. using iron sights, which are the fully adjustable BDL sights, the gun will shoot quarter size 12 shot groups at 25 yards with perfect windage BUT it groups about 3+ inches high no matter where i set the step elevator. i fired about 200 rounds trying to zero the sights. NO LUCK! even took the step elevator out of the sight. no change. i have never had a rifle do this. any ideas what may be wrong, this is a recent buy, and the first time i have fired it. maybe something/somewhere is too tight/loose??? i am thinking about adding a williams dovetail mount peep sight which should solve the problem but i think i will have to remove the factory rear sight. will the tall BDL ramp front sight be high enough for the peep? since the front sight screws on i see no way to add a different sight if needed with the peep rear. maybe a red dot or 4X30 scope??i just hate to treat the symptom and not the real cause of the malfunction !! i am so frustrated with this rifle not shooting WHERE I AIM ! i do not want to have to hold 3" low to hit the bulls eye. someone PLEASE HELP!! :idea: :idea: :idea:

Copper BB
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat May 31, 2014 9:43 am
PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 3:33 pm
So how do you lock the bolt back for cleaning?????????

Copper BB
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Nov 16, 2015 4:21 am
PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 6:05 pm
Thanks KGB

I actually took the trigger assmbly back apart yesterday and looked at the buffer and buffer plate. When I took the trigger assembly out to replace the firing pin, these two fell out. I did not have a diagram at the time so I guessed, and put the buffer in first then the buffer plate with the 90 deg. tab pointing toward the rear, but covering the front edge of the buffer. After downloading a diagram it appears the buffer plate should be installed first with the tab pointing to the rear, but at the top of the gun. After reassemlbing this way yesterday, it appears to be okay. Now just have to wait for the next chance to use it.

Thanks again for your help.

From me as well. This is exactly what I needed to know

Copper BB
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2018 4:44 am
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2018 8:24 pm
I picked up a early 70's 552.
At first Id tried cleaning it.
Then after 7 times opening it up and cleaning.
Id discovered the nose was busted off the disconnector arm
Id used dental picks on all the nooks and crannies, swiss filed the ejector slot, every part that caused drag.
I even went so far as to stone the machine marks on the hammer nose.
It fires the first round but closes on a empty chamber, on cycling the next round jams.
The last outing it did fire 4 rounds normally.
Since then Id orderd 2 new springs.
I just replaced the easy spring (the bolt return spring)
I noticed the old spring was 2 inches longer than the new spring (possibly the last owner had streched it thinking it was too weak?)
I still have to replace the magazine spring which I think needs replacing. . . . . .
Well I just replaced the internal spring
On the bench the new magazine spring was 13"-14" longer than the old spring.

So the action spring was 2 inches longer than the new spring ment too much resistance on firing.
The old mag spring that was 13-14" shorter than the new spring didnt supply sufficent feeding force to the cartridges during the firing cycle.
Thatd account for the empty chamber after firing the first round.

I had been cycling ammo through that rifle one time, thennthrough amazon I orderd 12 alumnum dummy rounds
Cycling the action by hand those rounds fed flawlessly.
Only during firing did it turn into a jam-a-matic.
Now all I have to do is actually take it out and run some live rounds through it to see how it behaves.

Copper BB
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2018 4:44 am
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2018 10:24 pm
Now after installing both new springs into this 552.
I wonder what the acceptable spring lengths would be?
That way when you pull a spring and measure it youd have some sort a idea what your working with.

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